New York: New York Fashion Week kicked off on Friday with several big names missing from the runways but a calendar full of young designers and emerging labels — fast becoming a trademark of the event.
Rodarte debuted the Fall 2023 parade, one of the few major brands to return this year.
The Colina Strada show was a voice for animals in a serene environment. A rebellious model “meows” to a cheering audience, followed by a model with a rhinoceros horn.
The brand’s streetwear touch is still there, but the colors are less psychedelic, more soft and elegant.
Those who like theatrical shows will also enjoy the return to New York — with a show on Tuesday — of Thom Browne, who replaces Tom Ford as head of the American Fashion Union (CFDA).
Other headliners include regulars Provenza Schuler, Altuzarra, Koch, Sergio Hudson, Carolina Herrera, Gabriela Hearst and Michael Kors.
But the event, which wraps up Wednesday in the middle of the Big Apple’s chilly month of February, was once again absent from high-profilers such as Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren and former CFDA chief Tom Ford.
Pop icon Rihanna, who has showcased her lingerie collection Fenty in New York in the past, will instead perform at the much-watched Super Bowl halftime show on Sunday.
“There are very few names that stand out in the US market,” said Jacqueline Quinn of the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT). Making sure his students are focused on Paris and Milan.
Instead, the collection of ready-to-wear designs greatly supports young talent and new brands, such as Elena Wells.
The 28-year-old was named “Emerging Designer of the Year” at the 2022 CFDA Awards for his unconventional creations that fuse high fashion with the metalsmith heritage of his hometown of Milwaukee.
‘Age of Renaissance’
About 20 designers are under 30, including Nigerian-born, New York-based Taofeek Abijako and his label heads of state, Indians Kaneka Goyal (KGL) and Emma Gage (Melke), who are more sustainable. Use recycled materials for fashion. .
For Wales, the Covid-19 pandemic has ushered in an “era of renaissance”.
“I think it’s the renewed lust for life and the reminder of the fragility of life that inspires young people like me to inspire ourselves with our passions,” he told AFP.
And Wales is determined to enjoy it while it lasts.
“If we’re honest, a startup fashion brand doesn’t exactly have a long shelf life,” he added.
Denmark’s Christian-Jol Nielsen, Hero Ledger’s creative director, already has years of experience having worked at Dior, Nina Ricci and Oscar de la Renta.
In 2019, she launched her own brand, Aknovas, whose designs “focus on drapey, flattering silhouettes, innovative knits and an elevated palette,” according to her website.
“I try to translate the drama I got from John Galliano and the modernism I got from Raf Simmons,” he told AFP.
For Nelson and others like him, New York offers an opportunity.
“A lot of the smaller brands in Paris, they just don’t get on the calendar,” Nelson added.